Battambang to Pursat
Day 3: Battambang to Pursat 106km/65 miles
We started at 6, in the dark. Breakfast was rice noodles at a country market. Mangoes for a dollar a kilo (2.2 lbs). I bought a baguette with jam for 25¢.
The landscape became more jungle-like and the people more outgoing. Children shouted hello from the side of the road or from houses behind the bushes 50 yards back, and people smiled more often.
A Westerner passed me. He was drafting behind a tractor pulling sacks of rice. The guys on top of the bags were relaying to the driver to keep a decent pace so the cyclist could trail them. I accelerated and caught up with him, cruising at speed and very little effort. He was casually sipping a Coca Cola. We chatted for a minute; he was from France and on his way to Phnom Penh. I realized I was leaving Masuda-sensei far behind, so I let them continue on.
We checked into the KM Hotel in downtown Pursat. Rooms with a pool and river view for just $18. I asked someone why it was so cheap. She said she didn’t know the English word, but it was probably because of “washing black money.” Nevertheless, I was glad we were staying here two nights. Some Cambodian Americans were down by the pool blasting Little Richard and Chuck Berry. Later, I saw an American exercise equipment infomercial dubbed in Khmer on TV.